Red toriis (or gates) with Japanese writing on them and black bases
Japan,  The Archives,  The places we've been

The Fastest Train to a Quieter Time

March 22, 2023 /

After a quiet evening back at our little hotel, which we now refer to as “the crevice”, we packed up for a new adventure. This time we would be taking the fastest train to a quieter time. Join us as we share all the sites from our first day in Kyoto!

180 mph on the Bullet Train

As much as Tokyo is bright lights, modern buildings and LOTS of people, Kyoto is more traditional, well known for their temples and shrines, and has a slower pace. After our long flight and our first two days of 10 mile walks, we thought this might be just the thing to help us recalibrate.

But before we could go slow, we had to go fast – like REAL fast. We took the first Shinkansen (Bullet Train) of the day from Tokyo station. We figured we were still getting up around 5am local time anyway, so why wait?

The fastest train to a quieter time - image of the Shinkansen bullet train at the station. It is white with a long, pointed front end.
The Bullet Train

We grabbed a Starbucks and settled in our seats. Since we had no idea what it would feel like to take this ride, I wore acupressure bracelets and took Dramamine. I thought there was a chance it would feel like a ride at an amusement park. Instead, it was SMOOOOOTH like silk. Most of the time I couldn’t even perceive that we were moving.

The fastest train to a slower time. Image of a woman sitting in a train. She has an ipad open on a tray table.
The smooth ride
Sandwich and a coffee on a tray table on the Bullet Train.
Breakfast Snack
Mt Fuji from the Bullet Train
Passing by Fuji-san

The Drop Off and the Check In

We arrived in Kyoto around noon but our check in at the Kyoto Fresa Inn wasn’t until 3pm. In the US, it’s common to check in to your hotel early, if the room is ready. We quickly discovered that in Japan, the time is the time is the time. The trains are on time and rooms are available AT THEIR TIME regardless of their cleaning status. So rather than checking in, we dropped our bags and set out on a day of adventuring.

The Temple Tour

First Up – The Shrine with a Thousand Gates

Our first stop was the the Fushimi Inari Senbon Torii – the Shrine with a Thousand Gates. Since it’s rather “Instagram-Famous”, we hoped getting there earlier in the day would bode well for less people. Turns out…we were right!

Multiple red Toriis (or gates) standing one in front of the next. The first one also has a black roof with Japanese writing on a rectangle in the center.
The first of a thousand
Red toriis (or gates) with Japanese writing on them and black bases
We thought these were inscribed with prayers. Turns out, they are the names of the people who donated to build them and the dates they were erected

The Road Less Traveled to The Shrine with Sweeping Vistas

Just past the gate, we found a narrow path through a bamboo forest to the Fushimi Kandakara Shrine – The Shrine with Sweeping Vistas. For some reason, the other tourist didn’t follow along and it left us feeling like we discovered a hidden gem.

Narrow stone path surrounded by bamboo trees
Through the bamboo we go!
Stone toriis leading to statues and shrines
Stone toriis
Ornate altar with a god-like figure standing on it and tiny red toriis to the right of it
The shrine and the tiny toriis
Red wood and stone toriis standing one after the next in a bamboo forest
The Toriis in the forest
Small statue of a man wearing a rounded hat, carrying a staff. Around his neck, someone placed a blue scarf and there are flowers around his feet
Many statues at the shrines and temples had offerings like this scarf or the flowers at his feet.

Over to the Tōfuku-ji Temple

Established in the 13th century, the Tofuku-ji Temple is the oldest zen Buddhist temple in Japan.

Stone walkway with Japanese lanterns on either side and a stone Torii at the bottom
Stone path surrounded by lanterns
Stone and red painted wooden toriis frame a stone path under maple trees
The toriis under the maple trees
Large Japanese temples with gabled roofs
The Hondo (main hall)
Stone pagoda
Stone pagoda

While visiting this temple, I finally realized that the dog / lion statues that are at every gate to every temple are different from each other. Known as komainu, the one on the left has his mouth closed while the one on the right’s mouth is open. They represent the beginning and the end – life and death.

Stone komainu (dog / lion) guarding the gate of a Buddhist temple
Mouth open
Stone dog / lion guarding the gate of a zen Buddhist temple. This one has his mouth closed.
Mouth closed – rather like a grin

I bet if they were real dog lions, I would have noticed the difference in their mouths much sooner.

More Temples Along the Way

Temple gate lined with red banner flags
Many of these temples are sub-temples of Tofuku-Ji. This one is Ikka-In
Path to the Shorin-Ji temple. Stone steps surrounded by blue banners.
Path to the Shorin-Ji Temple
Wash basin filled with flowers
Wash basin filled with flowers

Kyoto Tower and Luncha-luncha-luncha

We made our way over to the Kyoto Tower and just LOVED both the views and the super cool, interactive displays that were like large tablet computers. They allowed us to touch the landmarks we could see from the tower to get their information like names, websites, hours, and admission prices. I believe this is something EVERY observatory should look into getting since it’s a great way to help tourist discover other places to see. (So if you know someone who runs the Empire State Building or the Top of the Rock, please feel free to send this idea along.)

Elevator display at the Kyoto Tower showing what floor the elevator was on
Display showing on what floor the elevator is
View of Kyoto from the tower
Kyoto from above

The first floor of the tower was full of shops and the bottom floor was a kickin’ food hall. While not “Nirvana”, I experienced joy both for the food AND to have a chance to sit down.

Food hall at the Kyoto tower. Long wooden table with red, upholstered chairs
Food hall
Lunch tray with rice, miso soup, dumplings and two glasses of beer
A lovely lunch

The Tea Ceremony

At 4pm, we made our way over to Maikoya to get our Japanese make overs and to experience a traditional tea ceremony.

Banner at the door to the Maikoya Tea Ceremony
Entrance to Maikoya
Stone bowl with green tea powder, a bamboo whisk, and a plate with two sweets on a tatami mat
The tea gear
Two people in traditional Japanese attire, sitting on tatami mats, making tea
Making the tea
Man and woman in traditional Japanese clothes, standing in a garden
Properly attired

Beautiful Evening Walk

That evening we enjoyed strolling through the historic Higashiyama district.

Starbucks in Kyoto
This is a Starbucks!
Stone Torii in front of Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka shrine
Pagoda at Hokan-Ji temple
Pagoda at Hokan-Ji
Street leading to the pagoda at Hokan-Ji
Street leading to the pagoda

The American Meal

With the continued jet lag and all the miles on our feet catching up to us, we decided to head back to our hotel and grab dinner at the train station. That’s right, we had a McMeal in Kyoto. Hey, sometimes you just gotta get your French fries on.

Vaulted roof at Kyoto station
Kyoto station

That’s a wrap on our first day in Kyoto. Coming up, the floating tori and the deer assault. If you enjoy reading about our adventures, consider subscribing for free and follow us for snippets in real time at the__travel__oracle on Instagram.

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